Preparing the Soil

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Soil provides nutrients for plants and allows the roots to anchor the plant so that they can take up water and air – like humans, roots need oxygen too. “Good” soil is made up of 50 per cent soil, 25 per cent water and 25 per cent air – and it is not impossible to create.
There are two ways to improve the quality of your soil: the dig and the no-dig system. The dig system, as the name suggests, means digging manure or compost into the ground every autumn. The no-dig system means that you just put the organic matter (this means it’s made of material that has lived, so leaves that have rotted down, kitchen waste, grass clippings, chicken or cow manure) on top of the soil in autumn. Earthworms will drag it down into the soil and mix it up for you – so it’s great for people with back problems. As earthworms move about the soil they improve its structure by creating more air passages. As a result the soil particles don’t stick together as much and the roots find the soil easier to grow into.
There are advantages and disadvantages to the no-dig system:
- Advantages: Earthworms, fungi, bacteria, etc are not disturbed by your digging; weed seeds are not brought to the surface; moisture is not lost as you turn over the soil and cause evaporation; and, of course, it’s not such hard work and won’t take half as long as a full-scale dig.
- On the down side, pests may build up in the soil because you’re not disturbing them and if you don’t already have many earthworms, it will take ages for the organic matter to be taken down into the soil.
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Vegetable Gardening In Containers

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If you haven’t got a plot of land where you can grow vegetables then why not use some containers or pots to provide you wish some free vegetables for the table?
Quite a few vegetables are suitable for gardening in containers or pots. You can select bush or dwarf varieties. Almost any vegetable can be adapted to growing in a pot. Vegetables that take up little space, such as carrots, radishes and lettuce, or crops that bear fruits over a long period of time, such as tomatoes and peppers, are perfect for container vegetable gardens.
Containers and Pots for Vegetable Gardens
Selecting Containers: Containers for your vegetable gardens can be almost anything: flower pots, pails, buckets, wire baskets, bushel baskets, wooden boxes, nursery flats, window planters, washtubs, strawberry pots, plastic bags, large food cans, or any number of other things.
I have used old dustbins for potatoes and you can make use of a pile of tyres – filling up with soil a tyre at a time as the potato plants grow.
Drainage: No matter what kind of container you choose for your vegetable garden, it should have holes at the base or in the bottom to permit drainage of excess water.
Soil and Fertilizer
You can use soil in your container vegetable garden, but the synthetic mixes are much better. Peat-based mixes, containing peat and vermiculite, are excellent. They are relatively sterile and pH adjusted. They also allow the plants to get enough air and water. Mixing in one part compost to two parts planting mix will improve fertility.
Using a slow release or complete organic fertilizer at planting will keep your vegetables fed for the whole growing season.
Watering
Pots and containers always require more frequent watering than plants in the ground. As the season progresses and your plants mature, their root system will expand and require even more water. Don’t wait until you see the plants wilting. Check your containers daily to judge the need for water.
Have fun with your garden and you will soon enjoy the fruits of your labour.
Deep Bed Vegetable Gardening
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Rather than plant your vegetables traditionally in long single rows, why not use the deep bed method.
You will get a greater yield in less space, and your garden will require less maintenance.
The advantages of using Deep Beds for your vegetable garden are:
More space in your garden to grow your plants. You will see an increased production per square foot. If you are gardening in limited space this method allows you to get much more production per square foot than many other methods.
You save time because you have fewer weeds and properly monitored, less watering is necessary. You only need to mulch heavily between the rows. The shade provided by the growing plants eliminates the need for heavy mulching in the rows.
Harvesting is much easier, you will be able to pick more produce from a single location. You can control the height of your beds making picking much easier on your back.
Companion planting is much easier. By inter planting root crops such as carrots, beets and radishes with other plants, you cultivate and aerate the remaining plants as you harvest the root crops.
Your plants stay cleaner and healthier. Heavy rain is less likely to splash mud on your growing vegetables.
Creating Deep Beds:
3 foot wide rows work best if you need to reach the middle of the row from either side. But I often have wider rows with and tend them from a board over the beds which is raised on wooden blocks so as not to touch the bed.
The main work is in the preparation. Dig the soil to a depth of around 12 inchesand mix in lots of compost and well rotted manure.
After mixing your soil then rake it all level to ensure there are not hollows that will collect water. By mounding the planting area you will find the soil dries out and warms up sooner and crops reach maturity at an earlier date.
As always it is good to plan the layout of your vegetable garden on paper before you start planting.
A great advocate of deep bed gardening was John Sutcliffe of Self Sufficient Gardener fame. An amazing man who has inspired many to take up self sufficiency and organic gardening.
I have always tried to adopt this approach. Sometimes using boards around the beds for support but it is not necessary if wood is not available to you.
Laura’s Instant Kitchen Garden
The motive behind this blog is to provide lots of help to motivate and enable people to enjoy producing fruit and vegetables from their home garden or back yard. One family at a time!
Well, my daughter, Laura has been inspired. She and her husband Louis planted a vegetable garden a little while ago and she asked me to go and help her this last week.
You can see from this picture it hadn’t gone too well!
Lots of the good work they had done, seeds and plants, had been strangled by bind weed.
So I decided to dig a deep bed alongside the bed they alread had and to transplant what I could rescue into the new bed before I tackled the weed in the vegetable bed they had already created.
Setting to work I dug the bed in a couple of hours. Not easy work in a hot british summer I can tell you!
I then rescued the Broccoli (purple Sprouting) out of Laura’s vegetable patch and replanted them in the deep bed.
I also put in some dwarf and climbing french beans and a lonely pepper plant. An experiment for me was to put in a patio potato plant I managed to find at the garden centre. We will see how that gets along!
I put in a bean pole wigwam and sowed some runner bean seeds and planted a few french salad and beetroot seedlings (these may or not be successful).
Then I got down to work (hands and knees for this one) and, using a trowel, took out all the bind weed and dandelions that had strangled the life out of Laura’s seeds and onion sets in her little vegetable patch.
Her onion sets, although a little sad from a very shallow planting, are left…..along with two parsnip seedlings and a few carrots.
I thought I would give some peas a chance and placed a drill of peas.
to this:
The pea cane arrangement is a bit artisan as I only had access to some canes and string…so I was a bit inventive….but it will work providing they get watered and weeded occasionally!
Laura has promised some pictures as the weeks go by so you can see how we did.
Hope you enjoyed the post. Look forward to your comments!

























